The Melrose Doily (Tutorial) - Melrose Untersetzer (Anleitung)

Februar 11, 2016

The Melrose Doily (Tutorial) - Melrose Untersetzer (Anleitung)

Tutorial: The Melrose Doily

Notes:

(1) After reading the pattern you may marvel why you hardly ever found join with slip stitch and chain 3. As a matter of fact I prefer to begin a new round (especially when changing colours) with a chainless start (also known as standing stitch). The finished crochet piece just looks much better without these annoying chain stitches. AND: Using a standing stitch also enables me to make an invisible join... I will definitely not try to describe these techniques as there are plenty excellent tutorials and videos to be found online. Do have a look and try for yourselves. It's pretty easy and looks very nice.

(2) Once in a while you may finish a round and not be all that happy with the result, because the doily simply isn't flat. Don't panic, this problem will probably be solved as soon as you've crocheted the next round.

(3) This pattern may not be suited for absolute beginners as I reduced the instructions rigorously to the main features.

(4) The finished doily measures approx. 27cm in diameter. This will differ when using another hook and/or yarn. If you'd rather finish the doily after completing round 8 it will measure approx. 15cm.

(5) This doily can be crocheted in any yarn you like (using the corresponding hook). You could also use oddments (as long as you stick to the same yarn type and/or thickness, otherwise the result could not be all that presentable.

(6) Whenever I stitched into a dc I've inserted my crochet hook into the V of the dc (do have a closer look at the pictures to see exactly where)

Materials:

crochet hook (here 3,5 mm)
yarn sewing needle
scissors

Yarn:

(1) I crocheted with Gründl Cotton Fun in following shades:

white
light yellow
light green
green
black

(2) Yardage:

Round 1 = 1m
Round 2 = 2m
Round 3 = 3m
Round 4 = 4m
Round 5 = 3m
Round 6 = 5m
Round 7 = 7m
Round 8 = either 6,5m (finishing here) or 4,5m (continuing)
Round 9 = 4m
Round 10 = 11m
Round 11 = 9m
Round 12 = 9,5m
Round 13 = 7,5m
Round 14 = 12m
Round 15 = 8,5m

Abreviations:

2-ch-picot = ch 2 + dc in 2nd ch from hook
3-ch-picot = ch 3 + dc in 3rd ch from hook
ch = chain stitch
loop = loop made of ch
mc = magic circle
ss = slip stitch
tr = treble
tr2tog = 2 tr together

Instructions:

Start with a mc

Round 1: [ch 4 (= 1 tr + ch 1)] + 7x (1tr + ch 1) + ss in 3rd ch from start (no standing stitch here)

Round 2: 8x [(1 tr + ch 2 + 1 tr) in loop]

Round 3: 8x [(tr2tog + ch 3 + tr2tog + ch 1) in loop]

Round 4: 8x {1 dc in ch-1-loop + ch 1 + [4x (1 tr + ch 1) in ch-3-loop]}

Round 5: 8x {[(1 tr + ch 2 + 1 tr) in dc] + ch 2 + dc in 3rd loop + ch 2}

Round 6: 8x {1 dc in dc + ch 1 + [5x (1 tr + ch 1) in V-stitch-loop]}

Round 7: 8x {1 dc in dc + ch 2 + skip one loop + [4x (tr2tog in loop) + ch 2]}

Round 8 (when finishing here): 32x (1 dc in tr2tog + ch 3 + tr in initial dc)

Round 8 (when continuing):

have a closer look at pictures in order to know where to start from!
8x {(1 dc in tr2tog + ch 3 + tr in initial dc) + [3x (ch 3 + 1 dc in tr2tog)]}

Round 9: 32x (1 dc in loop + ch 3)

Round 10: 32x [(tr2tog + ch 2 + tr2tog) in loop]

Round 11: 32x {1 dc in loop + ch 1 + [(1 tr + ch 2 + 1 tr) between tr2tog] + ch 1}

Round 12: 32 x [(1 tr + ch 1 + 1 tr + ch 1 + 1 tr) in V-stitch-loop]

Round 13:

have a closer look at pictures in order to know where to start from!
32x (1 dc in 1st loop + ch 2 + 1 dc in next loop + 3-ch-picot)

Round 14: 32x [(2 tr + ch 1 + 2 tr + ch 1) in loop]

Round 15:

have a closer look at pictures in order to know where to start from!
32x {[(1 dc+ 2-ch-picot + 1 dc) in loop] + ch 1 + 1 dc in next loop + ch 1}

Happy crocheting!
P.S.: The tutorial is written in UK-terminology!
P.S.2: This might help too...

Anleitung: Melrose Untersetzer

Notizen:

(1) Nur einmal habe ich in diesem Muster „Kettenmasche in dritte Anfangsluftmasche“ verwendet. Das kommt daher, dass ich die einzelnen Runden mit „stehenden Maschen“ (engl.: standing stitches) angefangen habe, also ohne die störenden Anfangsluftmaschen. Obendrein gelingt so auch ein unsichtbares Rundenende. Das Resultat ist einfach schöner und ebenmäßiger... Da es im Internet genügend und wirklich hervorragende Beschreibungen (und auch Videos) zu dieser Technik gibt, werde ich mich nicht an eine Beschreibung wagen. Schaut einfach mal nach, es lohnt sich!

(2) Es kann schon mal vorkommen, dass der Untersetzer am Ende einer Runde nicht wirklich flach liegen möchte. Keine Panik, das Problem behebt sich bestimmt am nach der nächsten Runde.

(3) Da ich diese Anleitung aufs Wesentliche reduziert habe, ist sie vielleicht nicht wirklich geeignet für absolute Anfänger.

(4) Der fertige Untersetzer misst ca. 27cm im Durchmesser. Mit anderem Garn gehäkelt (und passender Häkelnadel) wird das natürlich abweichen. Nach der achten Runde misst der Untersetzer ca. 15cm.

(5) Meiner Meinung nach kann dieser Untersetzer mit jedem Garn und entsprechender Häkelnadel gehäkelt werden. Es eignet sich gut, um Garnreste zu verwerten (daher wird der Garnverbrauch angegeben), aber dabei dann doch lieber bei derselben Garnsorte und -dicke bleiben, damit das Resultat auch ansehnlich wird.

(6) Überall wo „in fM“ steht, habe ich in den V-Ausschnitt dieser fM eingestochen – schaut genau auf den Bildern nach!